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Puppy School Manual

Puppy School is for any dog under 16 weeks of age and has had its first Vaccination – Proof is required of this before they can commence class..  The following manual is a guide to successful running of this course.   Activities such as tricks can be incorporated into class if time allows.

What is covered in this course?

* Puppy Mat Training * Sit * St with a Hand Signal * Drop * Sit Stay * Drop with a Hand Signal * Come

Equipment Required

* 1 Business branded Large Training Mat
* Supply Ziwi Peak Treats
* 2 Training pens
* Training Lead
* Water Dispenser
* Access cards to access the training videos
* Appy Information sheet
* 1 x Lit Gazebo
* 12 camp chairs
* Puppy Information Packs
 

Prior to Start of Class Week 1 only

* Send a text to all class clients ensuring they know the start time and location – what they need to bring including no puppy week 1 only and that you look forward to meeting them.  This is to ensure there is no misinterpretation of the automated message/email that goes out to clients when they book.
* There is information collected at the time of booking about each dog – preview prior to the start of class.
* Once the first class has finished if you are a company trainer you will need to enter the dollar amount into our financial system Xero and for any other purchases they make during the course.
* If you are a franchisee ensure all payments have gone through the booking system Vcita so that the client gets a receipt – admin will do the rest.
 
 
 

Class Starts – Week 1 – Information Week

* Do a site check to ensure a safe environment – complete site check form and submit to the office for filing.
* Set up class site ready for clients.
* Greet clients as they arrive and hand out information packs.
* Once all clients have arrived start class.
* Each command will need to be demonstrated by using your own dog or a clients dog.
 

In depth Description of Week 1 Information

This is a Transcript of what we typically say in line with the information booklet.

You are about to start on a journey, which is going to last 10 years to 20 years depending on your puppy dog. In that time you going to have a lot of joy, heartbreak and headaches and possibly some pain most of which Is going to be inflicted in next few months if it hasn’t started already.
If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask tonight and during the next 5 weeks. The point of this is to get you guys on the right path and make sure you leave with the knowledge you need to make your puppy experience better.
We’re going to start tonight with socialization.

Socialization

Socialization is not so much about the puppies learning how to play with each other, although that’s certainly an element of this, but this is more about teaching a dog how to cope in our human world.
We as humans control the planet and we have shaped it to suit our needs and our society. Which is very different to what dogs are used to.  So this is about teaching them how to cope in our world.
The next four weeks gives us the opportunity to have a look at your puppies and be able to identify any issues that may be happening already and we will be able to give you some tips on dealing with those issues. For example if your puppy is going to then pen fence constantly, we’re going to have to start working on separation anxiety. It’s not getting enough time away from you whilst at home. It’s best to fix these issues now rather than when it has become a serious problem later on.
The next four weeks will also be about teaching the puppies how to play appropriately with each other. There will be yelping, biting and screaming. There will be blood usually ours because they have very sharp teeth, when you have six of them on you you are bound to bleed a little. This is when you see what is acceptable play and what is not. We will explain this as we go.
The most important part is teaching them how to cope in our world.
So one of the big things is getting your puppy out in the world. So it’s not about taking them dog parks. It’s about getting them out, so they experience our world. One of the biggest mistakes out there, which is perpetuated by some vets – not all vets, ignorant people on the internet and other sources, is that your puppy isn’t allowed out in the world unless it has had all of its injections. The reason behind that is that they like to scare you with parvo. Parvo is an intestinal tract disease. It will potentially kill a dog, but for them to get Parvo they have to ingest fecal matter from an infected dog, so unless you’re putting them on the ground and allowing them to eat another dogs poop it’s not likely to happen. The other thing that they don’t tell you is that if you step in infected poop on your walk, you can take parvo home into your house.
So when we are talking about taking pups out of the home, we’re not going to areas where there is a potential risk such as dog parks or dog beaches. What we should be doing is taking them to safer areas where it’s bitumen or concreted. You’ve got things like Bunnings, cafes, shopping centers, pet stores all those sort of things where they can experience the human world and learn to not freak out. Dogs which have been kept at home and are fine at home, tend to flip out the first time they are then taken out into the real world. They don’t know how to cope in the human world, because they’ve never been in it. This can lead to bigger problems.
The 8 to 16 week mark for your puppy is the most critical time of it’s life. It is where it learns how to cope in our world. And if you don’t teach them how to cope now when they get older it becomes a case of desensitization. This process takes significantly longer to change a behavior.

The biggest thing to remember when it comes to socialization is that dogs think differently to humans. We like to humanize everything in the world to make it seem better in our minds. So when a puppy acts scared. The first thing we do, we nurture, because it’s our nature. We say It’s alright right no need to be scared. This makes sense to us, but you got this little puppy that’s acting scared to a noise and you’ve just rewarded it. You’ve said this is how I want you to act.
What you need to do as humans, is to reward them not reacting or reacting positively and not rewarding the silly scared behavior. Because it’s just that. They’ll recover very quickly. But if you reward that behavior, then you can end up with the dog that freaks out every time it hears something because it’s gonna get a pat or attention for it.  So when your dog is doing something wrong or silly you don’t say anything you just correct the behavior. Your voice is a reward so telling them to stop something is rewarding them. They don’t understand English. They learn by association, a sound followed by an action.
And it’s a very important thing to understand. So the first Page in here is all about socialization.
If you turn the back page we have a check list of things.
We have hair dryers, vacuums, dishes, lawn mowers, things that happen around the home, so normal household appliances. We want them to be able to get used to these sort of sounds and not freak out.
Things like radio and TV again. Sounds that come out of box. TVs are interesting because 10years ago dogs could not see the images on the TV. Now due to technological changes they can, because the refresh rates, the Hertz rates and the Clarity have all changed. We had a dog that every time it’s saw an animal the TV it would do its nut. It was doing the owners heads in. We had to teach the little dog that the animals on the TV are not real. Don’t go off your nut about it. Ok? If your puppy does, whilst it may be funny. Please curb the laughter. Again, that’s a reward.
The next one is fireworks thunder and lighting. So thunder and lightning or storms is an interesting one because once again dogs are not born scared. They are created scared by humans. Thunder isn’t scary, lightning Isn’t scary unless humans make it scary. The quickest way to make it scary is when we have the crap scared out of us, and we go it’s ok baby. It’s ok. Well, it was but it’s not now you just taught the dog to be afraid of thunder and lightening. Or if the dog acts scared we nurture it, and we say you’ve done the right response, that’s what I expect. So if it rains, if you have a storm chuck the dog outside and play with it. Let it see that there is nothing to be scared of.
The next one is rain. There is nothing worse than a precious little pooch that doesn’t like getting wet or getting it’s bum wet. In Queensland it’s either beautiful and sunny for months on end or it rains for weeks on end. So if you don’t teach your dog now, how to get wet or get a wet bum when they go to the toilet, when it does start to rain they are going to choose to do it inside or on your deck or patio and in no time this will be covered in pee and poop and you will wonder why? I can tell you for a dog it’s very confronting when they are used to dry grass, and then they go to do their business and they get a wet blade of grass give them a bit of a tickle, and they never want to do it again. So please think from the dogs perspective and encourage them multiple times to go on wet grass. If it doesn’t rain hose the lawn. Wind and the dark are other ones that dogs can be scared of unnecessarily.

Brooms, bright light, flashes, mops and sprays.
Then we come to other human objects prams, umbrellas, hats, scarves, gloves, helmets and tools. So these are all things that can set a dog off we have even had a border collie that hated sunglasses.
So things that dogs think are important, to us are not.
Moving objects, so we are looking at skateboards, bikes etc.
Things that move fast excite dogs, they trigger their prey and predator drive.
We’ve got things like remote toys. So the one that’s getting around now are drones, drones tend to terrify dogs just like birds.
Then we got masks, so when it comes to masks, Halloween is probably the biggest contributor to issues with masks. Some people out there seem to think that putting on a mask and scaring the crap out of a dog is funny. Then they wonder why when I child comes up to the door with a mask on they get attacked. Because the association has been put in place. So please introduce them in a nice way to things like masks and costumes.
Then we come down to people. There are tall people short people babies children up to 5 children 5 to 10 children 10 to 15 men women and different ethnicity.
These are all things that can trigger a dog. When it comes to different ethnicity in human terms a dog can be racist. In dog terms we just smell different.
So depending on the color of your skin, where you are from on the planet and what your diets consists of determines what you smell like. For example vegetarians smell different to carnivores and dogs can tell that straight up. So if you have a dog that has only been exposed to one culture and all they have ever known is people from that culture anyone of a different culture, therefore different to the pack can be considered a threat. This is where it becomes very important. Get your puppies out and about in these environments where they get to meet every type of person.
Railway stations are good one, because you have lots of noise. You get people with canes, walking chairs, wheelchairs, headscarves all sorts of things. So they will get use to a wide variety of people and objects and won’t react.
Next is different textures? So dry grass, tiles, carpet, concrete, grates, mats those sort of things. Expose your dog to as many different textures as you can. It’s important for their development.
Then we come to animals. Like birds, cats, mice, rats and chickens. We want to introduce them to them. We don’t want to do things like, when we see a bird say scitch it. Dogs learn through association, after they learn to attack birds, and it’s exciting,they move to something else. Cats / children. It is not something you want to teach your dog.
Everything we have discussed here is not about making your dog Bulletproof it’s about teaching them resilience. So that when they come across something new as an adult and they go ok, I coped with that as a puppy I can cope with it now.
Any questions?
Alright next one fleas ticks and worms.

Flea and Worms

So parasites are the single worst things there can be for your dogs. When it comes to fleas, fleas are spread by cats it’s the common cat flea. They’re spread by possums, and by other animals. They can lie dormant in their egg form out in the yard for up to 6 months at a time.

When it comes to your dog catching them if you’re treating your animal with an appropriate product for flea and tick medication, then the flea won’t be able to breed on your dog . So if you see a flea on your dog don’t freak out as soon as it bites a dog it, will die. The key is stopping the breeding cycle. So for a flea to be able to breed, they need to have a blood meal. So when it has a blood meal it’s poisoned and dies. If you want to see something really horrible when it comes to fleas. Go to your local vet, go to the garden outside stand there with some white pants on and watch a little fleas jump up.
Because all they do is stay there and they wait till they feel the vibration come along and they don’t care what it is. They think it’s a meal. So as long as you are treating your animals. You won’t have a problem. When it comes to inside the home just remember when you go to gas them when they’re in a cocoon nothing can kill them. You will actually see in the fine print on the bottom all these flea bomb bottles that it won’t kill them if they’re in the cocoon stage. So it’s a lot cheaper and easier to treat your dog or your cat if both of them are inside the house. Then have to try and bomb the house all the time to get rid of pests.
The next one on the page is ticks.
In Australia were pretty lucky we have the most dangerous snakes, dangerous spiders marine stingers and sharks. We also have the deadliest tick and that is the Eastern Seaboard Paralysis Tick. So when a tick bites your dog it can take up to 72 hours for the poison to get into your dog and kill your dog. Most of the tick medications can take up to 72 hours to work on your dog. The bigger the dog, you’re generally luckier because it needs a lot more poison to be affected as much.
Where there are possums or bandicoots you’ll find the paralysis tick.
So I can’t stress enough treat your dog.
If you do get to tick Paralysis with your dog you looking at around two and a half grand to treat your dog. It’s much cheaper to give them the medication then to not treat them at all.
When it comes to flea and tick medication or any of the medications. There’s a huge variety out there.
Do you research because the pet industry will say whatever it takes to make money. They work on emotion to make you buy there products. There’s a multi billion-dollar industry surrounded by emotion for your dog. Not logic. So do your homework when it comes to deciding what suits your lifestyle, and what suits your dog. That does not mean listening to keyboard warriors in forums. It means doing logical research on each product.
Next part is worms. So worms are the nasties that in these particular cases we call zoonotic. What that means is humans can catch them from animals. A quick Google search will show you what whipworm in the eye looks like and what hookworm in the foot looks like. Those sort of things the kids can catch as well.
So how it happens is that we don’t treat adults and then the eggs and the larvae come out in the fecal matter, fecal matter disappears in the backyard, because we don’t see it or We don’t pick it up and those eggs and larvae are there and we walk along bare feet and we get it. It’s very important that you treat your animals. At the moment. You’ll be on a regime of 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 weeks of age then every month through to 6 months of age. Chances are it’s a little white tablet called Milbemax.
At 6 months of age, you’ll be asked by your vet. Did you want to continue monthly heart worm treatment, or did you want to give an injection? Which will last them for a year or two. How heart-worm works is it’s spread by mosquitoes and the dog gets bitten. They get a little worm inside the heart, which multiplies and multiplies to the point the dog has a heart attack. If you’re not doing heart-worm medication, and you want to start you have to have them tested for it first. This is because if they do already have it and you start treating them. You kill all the worms. They die in the heart and the dog has a heart attack. So it best to treat from the start than not treat at all.
So with worming medication they will tell you all sorts of furphys to sell your stuff. A classic one is nexgard Spectra kills everything it doesn’t it does not kill tapeworm. Tapeworm is spread by fleas and other other things that they consume. To kill tapeworm You require an ingredient called praziquantel, and it smells and dogs can smell in the worming medication, and then it’s not palatable.

Easiest way to do it is, do a worming product and do your flea and tick product don’t try to mix the two together because it never works.
Any questions?
I’m not going to tell you what to buy that’s not my job. I just want you to understand to do your research and have a look at What suits you and your own lifestyle.
Next is Premium food & treats.

Premium Food and Treats

So, there’s probably three main categories of premium food.
That is your premium kibble. Your raw premium diets and you holistic diets.
On top of that we have your non premium foods that’s your supermarket foods.
So a premium food has much higher quality ingredients.
You’ll find the first ingredient is usually a single protein beef chicken fish veal something like that vs. Your supermarket ones, which will have meat, meat- bi products. So if use Supercoat as an example.
By Australian Law the very first ingredient has to be what ingredient there is the most of inside of the package. So they can’t say what it is because they don’t know what it is so they call it meat, meat by-products. The thing is when it comes to the food industry. Is owned mostly by two companies? Mars and Nestle. So Mars owns most of it then Nestle and then you got small independence that float around the bottom.
When you give good premium food to your dog, it’s what we call nutrient-dense. Which means if you were using advance you probably feed about that much, but Supercoat about that much. Premium foods don’t have fillers in them. Its all good quality food. So you don’t need to feed a lot to them. Which means there’s a lot less poop coming out the other end. It is more expensive because it is high quality ingredients. But it also strengthens the immune system as well, which means less visits to the vet.
When it comes to your other two varieties your holistic diets and your raw diets. A s a puppy we don’t recommend raw diets until they are older unless it is something like proudi which is extremely high grade with everything in it.. Once they are older go for it. But as a puppy that have specific nutritional requirements they require to grow up properly. So large breed requires less calcium than the small bread, because grows over 2 years not one year. So that’s why you’ll get your large breed formulas, and your small breed formulas in processed food as opposed to raw..
When it comes to a raw diet once you do decide to go down there path. Please make sure it’s quality raw diet. Not your cheap pet mince you get from the supermarket or from the butcher. That’s the stuff that they can’t feed humans. so in Australia there is no law governing what goes into pet food. they are self-regulated. That’s why we have all these constant recalls. only once they get found out.
So if it’s not human grade, don’t feed it to your dog.
When it comes to your holistic diets.
Holistic diets typically have no artificial colors flavors preservatives or anything like that in it. so that’s why you tend to have to feed a little bit more and they have a much shorter shelf life on them. now that also incorporates grain free, so Australia came onto the grace grain-free craze a lot later than other parts of the world and now the FDA are providing evidence where it is causing cancer in dogs at a much higher rate than what it should be. that’s not because it’s missing the grain, it’s because they actually replaced it with legumes which are causing issues within the dogs.

So these are all the things you just having to look at and get what suits you and your dogs because every dog is different.
The other thing is if you buy it online. It’s significantly cheaper. So, if you want a good premium food then do it online.
Any questions about food before I go onto treats.
We turn the back page up the top there. We’ve got a chart which shows you different weights of dogs. So it’s a good thing to refer to.
Puppies digestive system are not set up till six months of age. Please Don’t give them things like Greenies for there teeth They’re full of chemicals.
You can feed them healthy food as per the chart below. You can feed your dog Apples strawberries beans carrots bananas blueberries watermelon peanut butter when you giving them peanut butter, please make sure it’s not diet peanut butter that which may have xylitol in xylitol is toxic to dogs.
Down the bottom there is all humans favorite stuff, which is toxic to dogs.
Tomatoes avocados onions garlic chocolate nuts grapes mushrooms.
All will kill your puppy dog, so please don’t feed them to them. another reason why we don’t give human food. human food is full of salt and sugar. It’s full of fat, bad for us. It’s worse for our dogs.
There is thing in dogs called pancreatitis and when a dog gets it it’s too late. Ok the 70% of the kidneys and liver shot, and then your managing it for the rest of your life. It’s caused mostly by fatty products when human food has been fed to them.
So your puppy is going to start teething soon. They’re not teething yet. So when they do give them a Frozen carrot or Frozen banana which will be really good for them, because it’s frozen it will actually soothe the gums and It will create less pain for them, and it’s a healthy snack. Couple other things to do with your dogs. So why do we think that dogs love Schmackos and go whacko over Schmackos. They are full of sugar and salt. We call them Maccas for dogs, horrible stuff. That’s why they Love it.
The other thing to avoid is Rawhide treats ok, so you’ll see the pet stores are slowly starting to get rid of them because sales are dropping. But you’ll see especially come Christmas time. all these pretty little things done in bows etc and you buy them in Kmart. so you’re rawhide treats are the off cuts from the leather industry. They bleach it and drench it in chemicals to within an inch of it’s life. they then smoother with glue fold it into nice pretty little shapes and then they add artificial color and flavoring to it, and they sell it to you in packets. Disgusting
and then you get those little sticks you get the pack of 50 in Woolworths, Have a look at the back. It’s like 90% sawdust it’s horrible.
The next thing which is an insider secret. when you pick up a pack of treats turn it around and it may or may not say do not feed to cats. If it says do not feed the cats. I wouldn’t feed it to your dog. the reason Why is about 10 years ago the Australian government change the regulations to do with import of cat and a pet products, and they found that anything that had been irradiated, which they need to do to bring into Australia when it’s meat products etc they found it Is killing cats. It causes their brains to go Haywire and kills them. But they won’t change the laws for dogs. So if it says do not feed to cats on the back, I wouldn’t feed it to your dogs.
A classic example is Jerhigh milky sticks on the back of it Do not feed the cats.

So things like pigs ears are generally within Australia. They can be very good for dogs to chew on but they don’t last long and they are high in fat. And with your smaller breeds they can swallow the bit towards the ear and that can cause an obstruction. so just be careful of that bit. If you want to give your dog something good to chew on that will last Give them a goat horn an antler ear or goat hoof something they can’t just swallow straight away.
Kangaroo tails are fine just keep an eye out for a particular worm they gets into a lot of that the kangaroo bits the pig ears and all those Pig products. So if they are wrapped pick it up and look for little shavings in the bottom. If you look closely enough you will see the worm, and those little worms are associated with a fly which if it gets in your house, into the walls and starts breeding. It will chew on everything, so please watch out for it.
Any questions so far?
Ok, so the next one is dog drives and language.

Dog Drives and Language

So this is something along with child safety that No other puppy school does. We believe it’s very important because we have to deal with the consequences and we believe in educating people so that they aren’t afraid of certain things that dogs do. All dogs have the six natural drives in them. They have their play drive. If you throw a ball and they bring it back to you,
They have their prey and Predator drives where you throw the ball and They don’t want to bring it back or the do the classic shake and Kill which we have all seen with our dogs at some point special little white terriers. They love that.
you’ve got your guarding drive where they are bearing the teeth.
Your defense drive with a bite defending
and the fight drive where they come after you and attack you. Every single dog has those instincts in them whether you like it or not. Understanding them is important.
There’s one other attribute that dogs have.
And it’s to do with their softness or their hardness. Some dogs you raise your voice, and they will wet themselves other dogs your raise your voice and they will give you the middle paw and walk off.
And every dog is to some degree within those two Ranges. when you add that to those 6 drives You have their personality. No dog is the same just like humans, so never compare your dog to someone else’s dog or to a previous dog, because they will never be the same. To be a good leader to your dog, you need to be Calm, Assertive and Consistent.  We don’t like using the term Alpha because you can be an Alpha and be a crap leader.
You see it all the time in the workplace you get these managers that think they’re gods gift to everything, and they’re a really crap leader, and you don’t respect them. So it’s about teaching you guys how to be a good leader to your dog. You don’t need to be an alpha.
So to be a good leader you need to be calm. You need to be assertive and you need to be consistent and they are probably the three hardest things to do in this mad society.
Calm means you need to remain calm if your household is nuts It’s going to reflect in your dog. so you need to try and be calm as much you can around your dog. if you are stressed from work or a relationship or anything else. It’s going to play into your dog. They’re going to react to the environment That is around them the same as what we do.
You need to be assertive.
Not so much with a puppy. But certainly once they are over 4 months You need to be able to be assertive. when you given instruction You need to follow it through. if you can’t follow it through your dog looks at you and goes you’re a crap leader Why should I follow you. If you had a manager at worker who gives you a direction, but doesn’t enforce it, you don’t feel you have to do it. You certainly don’t respect them.
Dogs are all about leadership. They love rules. They love to follow rules, and when there’s no rules they tend to go haywire. no different to humans.
The next one is consistency. This is really hard for humans. If you’re inconsistent your behaviors are inconsistent the dog once again Will look at you as a crap leader. So the easiest way for a human to become consistent is to make it part your routine. humans are intrinsically lazy creatures. We call it efficiency, but ultimately it’s laziness. So if you can make everything part of your routine you will achieve the consistency required for your dog to follow you. so make sense.

Dogs don’t need routines human’s need routines.
So when it comes to reading all of their body language?
When I look at dogs body language, I look at a whole set of things. what I’ve done here is I’ve just put a few different things to help you sort of understand what they may be doing. It’s a lot more complex than this bit it gives you a bit of an idea of different things that they do. a classic example is when you see a dog that is wagging its tail. the first thing that humans think is it’s friendly. That is a very big mistake. We deal with plenty of dogs that are ready to rip your throat out but Their tails are wagging because they think it’s fun. Ok wagging tail. Just means they’re enjoying what they’re doing it that point in time. Does not mean they’re friendly.
The other things that dogs do is that they have the luxury of watching us all day long and watching our behaviors, so they learn very quickly what they have to do to get a reaction. I’ve seen many a dog that will shake and drool and whine all just to get a reaction out of human. Ok? So just because your dog is doing something doesn’t mean it’s actually fear or anger or something like that. It could just be that they’ve learnt if I do this particular behavior I get a reaction.
classic example. There is a dog peeing. So once a dog has peed 3 seconds later They have no idea what they have done. They don’t have a cognitive memory like humans, but then the human will come in and go what have you done you know you’ve done wrong? Some humans Will even rub their noses in it.
the dog doesn’t understand what’s going on. It just sees an angry human. So what does the dog do or a puppy do? It displays a behavior that pacifies the human i.e. They act scared. So then in the future every time they see an angry Human they act scared. you’ve just taught them the behavior and they have learnt how to cope with a particular mechanism against a human. make sense. So when your dogs are doing something you have 1 1/2 seconds to either reward or discipline.
When it Comes to a puppy and they’re peeing in the house. Just a loud clap of the hands to give them stage fright. Take them outside and then reward them. That’s all you need to do.
When it comes to playing and understanding a few things about the drives the number one thing, please do not ever play with your dogs is tug-of-war ever, unless you want to sell your dog to the police force of security forces. Playing tug of war with your dog triggers the prey- predator drive within the dog? That is the Instinct to grab hold of an animal bring it down to the ground, kill it and eat it.
Ok, so the tug of war itself is not the problem. the problem is the association with the human so Dogs can play tug of war with another dog. They can play tug of war against an inanimate object. It’s when you associate that prey drive with human all of a sudden your teaching a dog It’s appropriate to grab something that provides resistance with a human. so they start grabbing leads They start grabbing clothes, and then they grab children.
When we are training a dog to bite in dogs sports or in the police force we put on a bite sleeve and we’re playing tug of war and we are encouraging it. Please don’t ok.
The next thing to understand is behavioral Enrichment in dogs. It is important. They need it. So what does a squeaky toy simulate? have a guess – an animal dying.
So all dogs need it so give it to them, but understand what it is because that’s important because what do children’s simulate when they squeal and they run.
Small furry animals running a long. Why do you think dogs get so excited around screaming children. They sound like an animal dying and it is triggering that prey predator drive within the dog. Ok once again. This is not to scare you . This is so that you understand when you understand you can watch out for it. Ok? That’s important.
Any questions about drives

Next is child safety

Child Safety

. 13000 hospitalization every year in Australia and it’s rising by 10% a year –  That’s not the run-of-the-mill bite that I get as a trainer or you get – that is hospitalization requiring stitches, reconstruction all those sort of things. Two-thirds of those are children the average age 5 to 7 – it’s not from lack of love. It’s through lack of understanding. On the internet people seem to perpetuate that things like a baby in a bouncer and a Staffy with its arm over it and everyone’s going goo goo Gaga over this picture. When I see this as a dog trainer it absolutely infuriates me.
This is not a something to go gaga over. At no time should a child be left in those sort of situations with a dog ever.
So, this is where these 13000 hospitalizations come from in the last week. There’s been two children mauled and an elderly man killed in Melbourne, so we’ve had 3 of 13000. it’s really important to understand the separation of child and dog.
So a child can be around a dog but only when supervised. We had a case with a mastiff. The dog was asleep on the lounge chair and the 4 year old kid went over and tried to give the dog a cuddle.
Dogs have a fight or flight drive.
The dog Turned around put its mouth straight over the kid and bit it on the face. both parents were in the room watching footy.
They where not watching the child or the dog. accidents happen in a split second. If It’s going to happen It’s going to happen when you take your attention off. So it’s really important that you have these things in place within your own home. We will teach you everything that we can to do with the safety side of things and how to control and manage their situations, but ultimately it’s up to you.
There’s a Utube video down the bottom that’s called stop the 77. Please watch it. Ok? It shows the perception of the dog to the perception of the human.
And children are the most important things that we need to protect.  Children don’t have the ability to co-ordinate their movements till about 14 years of age. Not properly and up until that point a dog can perceive them as a threat because they move differently. So when it comes to a child they should not be feeding a dog they can with a parent put the bowl down whilst being supervised, but they shouldn’t actually be feeding the dog. Because they could move funny and pull back and you have triggered that prey dive.  You would have already seen that with your new puppies when they go to nip you and you freak out making out that it’s a mauling monster, when it’s only a small puppy with puppy teeth. Children do exactly the same thing and it triggers that drive. Children should never pull things out of their mouth. That’s an adult job. Not a child. There is another important thing to understand high-pitch squeals and uncoordinated attempts of affection can be scary to a dog. So when it comes to humans, it’s very normal for us to hug. It’s not normal for a dog. It’s dominance and you’ll see that when they meet a new dog the first thing they want to do if they want to dominate another dog is they go over the top of it. So when a small child goes to do that they’ll see that as a threat and they can take it out because of the child being the same height. One of our advantages aside from memory Is that we are bipedal we stand on two legs? So we’re significantly higher than a dog. get down on all fours and see the difference in the dog.
It’s one of the ways that we test Impulse control of dog. We get down at their level and watch them lose it. so we want to teach children about positive interactions with the dog that is very important. We also want to make sure that we’re going to be doing a lot of food training, so we are going to teach kids here. Once the dogs becomes an adolescent adult around the 5 month Mark we remove the food for the adults, but we keep going for the children.
Another Urban Myth is that taking the food from the dog shows your the boss, and You’re in charge. Please. Don’t do that it create resource aggression, and you’ll get more serious issues. If you’re constantly taking something away from a dog you’re going to tick it off. If you constantly took my meal from me you tick me off and I punch you in the head. so what we want to do is we want the dogs to see that the hand gives the food it doesn’t take it away. It’s a very subtle difference, but it’s a very important difference. If you want to teach your dog not to be afraid of hands the hand puts food in the bowl It doesn’t take away. A dog doesn’t know what resource guarding is unless you teach it by taking away its food.

If there is a genuine resource aggression issue from puppy-hood. The chances are it’s caused by one of two things. too many pups in the litter and they had to fight for the tit or mum ran dry. one of those things can create that within a puppy it cannot be changed it can be managed. What I want to stop is anything created by humans.
Any questions
So some of the biggest things that people freak out about with a puppy’s is first of all sleep. my answer is get some earplugs for the first few nights works wonders, but biting and piddling through the house and those sort of things so when we have children. We bring them home. We put them in bassinet. We put them in cots we childproof the place. We put locks on every cupboard and every door in the place and the child doesn’t get to go anywhere for the first few years without being restricted in some way.
Yet we bring home a puppy which has the mental age of a 1 month old baby.
And we put it down in the middle the house. We go knock yourself out and wonder why they piss on everything they poop behind the couch. They get your favorite socks chew the bottom and they grab dad’s undies are running down the hallway they get into the laundry basket. They get the into food and then they wake you up at 2 a.m. In the morning bubbling at the mouth because they got into the the cleaning products behind the cupboard. So control becomes very important to a puppy and learning those rules early on becomes important to a puppy . So my biggest suggestions for you guys is to get yourself a pen. Put it in the house. The puppy has free rein within that pen and can do whatever it’s wants, when it’s out of the pen it’s only for a temporary period and It’s on a lead.
When it’s on a lead firstly it learns to walk on a lead, so it learns control. the second thing that happens is that it can’t do anything without you knowing it. Can’t poop under the couch. Can’t chew your favorite socks. It can’t rip up the books in the book stand, it can’t do any of that stuff. It can’t bite you because it’s on a lead ok, and when it’s not with you it’s back in its free area. It’s only for a little period of time. Just to start teaching these rules. If you don’t teach it to walk on a lead now in about three four weeks time, You gonna put on a lead or a collar, and it’s going to go nope I ain’t doing it.
And you gonna have more pain. So start early start teaching the rules and boundaries for the puppy now. when it comes to biting There’s lots of techniques, that would be perpetuated by challenge people on the internet. It has all the best information of the world, and it has all the worst information well because no one has to be smart to post on the Internet for other people to read it.
You will see things like bite your dog back. Trust me. It’s there, I’ve had someone say they tried it. Please. Don’t bite your dog back. Ok first of all you’ll get a mouthful of fur. You don’t have canines. So it’s not gonna work effectively like Mum dog around the neck. Ok? We just don’t have the mouth.
It doesn’t work.
Don’t squeal ok? We’ve already said squealing sounds like an animal about to die,ok, we also don’t have canine vocal cords ok? We don’t sing like a bird think that they understand us so why would we squeal like a dog and think it understands? Ok logic?
There’s a technique that is perpetuated again by vets and by some pet stores called the replacement Technique. when a dog bites you Give it a toy. Please Don’t do that Either. The reason Why is We teach a dog to sit, to do this we use food and go sit and We give the food, but if they don’t like food. We go sit we give it a toy. So the dog bites you and you give it the toy. you have just taught it to bite you and it gets a toy absolutely?
The easiest way to stop a dog biting, because at this stage all they’re doing is there trying to find their way in the world. They don’t have hands. They only have a mouthful of sharp little teeth. OK so they’re trying to figure out what the hell’s going on. If you squeal or move quickly. That’s exciting. Ok, same as turn your back on a dog. You turn your back on the dog.  The dog goes sweet, all I have to do is jump up and they bugger off. If he goes to bite you move slowly- They’re only little teeth unless the dog has some serious puppy issues that I need to fix for you.

So move slowly and it becomes less exciting. ok for the kids if your dog is really bad at nipping one of things that I do with children, I send them outside smothered in tropical strength aeroguard. puppy has one bite of child then never touch them again.
That is probably the most vile tasting thing I’ve ever come across in my life for both humans and for dogs. soon as they have tasted that they never want to have some again, so it becomes very good for children because it teaches them not to bite small children.
But if you move slowly and you start, and we will show you next week how to use a Mat or a collar to teach them not to do things and you control those behaviors. Just remember. It’s a small child. It doesn’t understand. It’s looking for a reaction. everything that you do is training a dog into something good or doing something bad. So if you squeal and give it a bloody good reaction, it’s gonna do it again. When they grab at your ankles like a Border Collies like to do and They nip and your squeal and jump they go wow this is awesome I want to play this game again, so be careful with what you do and what you teach your dogs.
You want to get them used to control now.
If you’re scared about leaving them at home unattended with a collar on just take the collar off while you’re not home. For a lead at this stage all you need is a cheap $2 chain lead from The Reject Shop.
And an old towel in a crate and some pea pads.
So if you’re using a crate to toilet train. You need to make sure that the crate and the movement within the crate is small enough that they can just basically turn-around in standing and sleep. That’s it. If you have too much room. You going to encourage the dog to be able to piss up or poop up the other end, and you don’t want them to learn to be unclean. the point of crate training is that a dog is naturally clean. It’s not going to mess or pee Where it sleeps. So what you do need to do is every 2 hours. Take your dog outside to pee and reward with a treat. That’s what I call the non sleep method.
The Sleep method is to have a crate With the door open into a pen and cover the floor with pee pads, and count down the number of pees and poos till there was none and then take them outside and give them a Bonanza of treats when they pee outside because it meant they could hold it all night long. Remember your puppy’s bladder is tiny. if you take their age in months and add one. That’s how many hours they can hold it for so if you got an eight week old puppy than you’re look looking at a maximum of 3 hours that they can hold it. don’t expect them to hold it all night. Ok? You can teach your dog. This is why dogs that come from pet stores tend to piss in their own Crate because they’re forced to.
So we have run out of time goodnight.

Below is the associated content from the run sheet for Week 1

Key Topics – Week 1

  • Socialization
  • Premium Food and Treats
  • Fleas Ticks and Worms
  • Dog Drives and Behaviour
  • Child Safety

No Key Commands this Week

Week 1 – Class Run

  • 5 Mins – Introduction to course and training – information about yourself
  • 10 Mins – Socialization
  • 10 Mins – Premium Food and Treats
  • 10 Mins – Fleas Ticks and Worms
  • 10 Mins – Dog Drives and Behaviour
  • 10 Mins – Child Safety
  • 5 Mins – Close down – Final points – Let them know next weeks Commands with Puppies.

 

Class Starts – Week 2

* Do a site check to ensure a safe environment – complete site check form and submit to the office for filing.
* Set up class site ready for clients.
* Greet clients as they arrive and greet puppies
* Observe puppies behavior and that of the client so you can match play mates and look for potential issues
* Once all clients have arrived start class.
* Each command will need to be demonstrated by using a clients puppy.
 

In depth Description of Week 2 Commands.

Puppy Mat Training

Key command used in class

Puppy Mat Training “Using a hand indication pointing to the mat with the command ON THE MAT gently lead the puppy to the mat”

  • Puppy mat training is about basic early control – we do not want the puppy to lie down like in the adult version – we just want them to sit.  So to do it we are going to tell the puppy to go to the mat and lead them onto it – if they try to get off we just pull them back on.  When they sit we say free and pull them off and praise them.

Puppy Sit

Key command used in class

❑ Sit “Lifting the treat up above the head and when the bum touches the ground command SIT

  • With a treat in your hand lift it over the top of the puppy.  The bum should move toward the ground.  As it touches say the word sit.  If the puppy is jumping about do not reward till it is stable.  Pull the treat further away from the puppy.

 

Below is the associated content from the run sheet for Week 2

Key Phrases – Week 2

❑ Puppy Mat Training “Using a hand indication pointing to the mat with the command ON THE MAT gently lead the puppy to the mat”


❑ Sit “Lifting the treat up above the head and when the bum touches the ground command SIT

Week 2 – Commands


❑ Puppy Mat Training – Demonstrate with a clients dog how to do Puppy Mat training – say command once – Keep all 4 paws – puppy only needs to sit on the mat– if dog steps off do not say anything just take back to Mat.


❑ Puppy Sit – Lift the treat up with the right over the head of the puppy. When the puppy bum touches the ground say sit. If the dog stands back up don’t say anything just redo, if the dog lies down coax puppy to new position and redo

Week 2 – Class Run


❑ 5 Mins – Introduction to puppies and training – What will happen now
❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in Pen
❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Mat Training
❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in the Pen
❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Sit Command
❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in the Pen
❑ 5 Mins – Close down – Final points – Let them know next weeks Commands

 

Class Starts – Week 3

* Do a site check to ensure a safe environment – complete site check form and submit to the office for filing.
* Set up class site ready for clients.
* Greet clients as they arrive and greet puppies
* Observe puppies behavior and that of the client so you can match play mates and look for potential issues
* Once all clients have arrived start class.
* Each command will need to be demonstrated by using a clients puppy.

In depth Description of Week 3 Commands.

Puppy Sit with a Hand Signal

Key command used in class

“With an open hand scoop upwards in front of the puppy with the command Sit – treat from the other hand”

  • To do sit with a hand signal we move the treats to the opposite hand.  If this has been done right the dog will sit with a movement above the head.  We simply change our hand to an open position and scoop upwards and say the command.  Then immediately treat from the opposite hand.

Puppy Drop

Key command used in class

“With the puppy in the sit position lure downwards from the nose with the treat to the paws slowly – Belly touches the ground say Drop”

  • When doing the puppy drop it is exactly like the command.  There are a few watch outs – if you move the treat too quick they may lift their bum – you may have to wiggle it forward or backward to get them into position.  For the really tough puppies we recommend doing it on polished floors so they slip into place.  We also have a puppy sweep where we have treats in the hand.  So as we sweep the legs out and they go down they get a mouthful of treats – refer to the practical demonstration from the trainer.  When the belly touches the ground we say Drop.

 

Below is the associated content from the run sheet for Week 3

 

Key Phrases – Week 3


❑ Puppy Sit with hand Signal “With an open hand scoop upwards in front of the puppy with the command Sit – treat from the other hand”


❑ Drop “With the puppy in the sit position lure downwards from the nose with the treat to the paws slowly – Belly touches the ground say Drop”

 

Week 3 – Commands


❑ Puppy Sit with Hand Signal – Demonstrate with a clients dog how to do Puppy Sit and hand signal– say command once – with open hand scooping above the head say sit – treat comes from other hand


❑ Puppy Drop – From the sit position lure the dog with the treat from the nose to the paws and move outward slowly – when the belly touches the ground say drop

 

Week 3 – Class Run


❑ 5 Mins – Introduction to puppies and training – What will happen now

❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in Pen

❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Sit with Hand Signal

❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in the pen

❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Drop Command


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in the Pen


❑ 5 Mins – Close down – Final points – Let them know next weeks Commands

 

Class Starts Week 4

* Do a site check to ensure a safe environment – complete site check form and submit to the office for filing.
* Set up class site ready for clients.
* Greet clients as they arrive and greet puppies
* Observe puppies behavior and that of the client so you can match play mates and look for potential issues
* Once all clients have arrived start class.
* Each command will need to be demonstrated by using a clients puppy.

In depth Description of Week 4 Commands.

Puppy Drop with a Hand Signal

Key command used in class

“With the puppy in the sit position use an open hand moving down to the paws with the command drop. Treat from opposite hand ”

  • When doing the puppy drop with the hand signal we are using an open hand to motion to the ground – if the pup can do the drop with food then the open hand will simulate this – treat from the other hand.  If required have some nice smelly crumbs on the open hand just to help proof the behavior.

Puppy Stay

Key command used in class

“With Puppy in a sit position. Give the hand signal and say stay and do a small step back. Return and treat”

  • When doing the puppy stay they need to have a good sit.  You are going to give them the hand signal and say stay then step back. Be mindful of the size of the dog – a little dog will be a little step.  As the dog improves you can increase the distance.  The other watch out is if the dog does not have a stable sit for movement you may need to proof the stay by not moving then adding movement latter when the puppy understands that staying still with the sound stay means they get a treat,

 

Below is the associated content from the run sheet for Week 4

 

Key Phrases – Week 4

❑ Puppy Drop with hand Signal “With the puppy in the sit position use an open hand moving down to the paws with the command drop. Treat from opposite hand ”


❑ Puppy Stay “With Puppy in a sit position. Give the hand signal and say stay and do a small step back. Return and treat”

Week 4 – Commands


❑Puppy Drop with a hand signal – “With the puppy in the sit position use an open hand moving down to the paws with the command drop. Treat from opposite hand ” Clients need to have practiced drop consistently to be able to achieve this.


❑ Puppy Stay– With Puppy in a sit position. Give the hand signal and say stay and do a small step back. Return and treat. Be aware of the distance you step based on the size of the dog.

 

Week 4 – Class Run


❑ 5 Mins – Introduction to puppies and training – What will happen now


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in Pen


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Drop with Hand Signal


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in the Pen


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Stay Command


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in the Pen


❑ 5 Mins – Close down – Final points – Let them know next weeks Commands

 

Class Starts Week 5

* Do a site check to ensure a safe environment – complete site check form and submit to the office for filing.
* Set up class site ready for clients.
* Greet clients as they arrive and greet puppies
* Observe puppies behavior and that of the client so you can match play mates and look for potential issues
* Once all clients have arrived start class.
* Each command will need to be demonstrated by using a clients puppy.

In depth Description of Week 5 Commands.

Puppy Come

Key Command used in class

Puppy Come “With the puppy in the sit position – place in a stay then take a few steps back and call come. Then treat the puppy. ”

  • To do come with the puppy first it needs to understand Sit and Stay.  If the client has practiced this it should be relatively simple.  Place the puppy in a sit and stay.  Call the dog to you using the command come and get to sit. Reward with a treat – you may have to use the lead to prompt the puppy to come towards you.

Graduation

  • Photo time with dogs and owners.
  • Ask permission for photos to be taken and uploaded particularly when children are in photos.
  • Caps, Certificates and Magnets
  • Let clients know about Level 1

Below is the associated content from the run sheet for Week 5

 

Key Phrases – Week 5


❑ Puppy Come “With the puppy in the sit position – place in a stay then take a few steps back and call come. Then treat the puppy. ”


❑ Puppy Graduation Take photo of puppy and give certificate and magnet

 

Week 5 – Commands


❑ Puppy Come – Place the puppy in the sit position. Place in a stay. Client needs to have practiced this. Take a few steps back and call Come. Treat the puppy.


❑ Puppy Graduation – Take photo of the puppy in the cap and give certificate and magnet to the owners.

Week 5 – Class Run


❑ 5 Mins – Introduction to puppies and training – What will happen now


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in Pen


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Come


❑ 10 Mins – Puppy Socialization in the Pen


❑ 20 Mins – Puppy Graduation


❑ 5 Mins – Close down – Final points – Congratulate – Ask for review – let know about Level 1

 

After Course

  • Once class has finished if you are a company trainer then
    • Photos are to be Uploaded to dogtraining101 Facebook page.
    • Names of dogs and location in 1 must be with the photos on the post
    • Remember to ask all clients for a review.
  • If you are a Franchise Owner then email the above details to admin and they will upload them Monday morning and ask clients if they would like a copy sooner which you can text to them.
  • Ask for a review also on the dogtraining101 page or on google.

Level 1 Obedience is for non reactive dogs over 16 weeks of age.  The following manual is a guide to successful running of this course.  Key commands are used to prompt clients what they are supposed be doing during the command.  Activities such as weaving can be incorporated into class if time allows.

 

What is covered in this course?

* Mat Training * Sit * Stand * Drop * Sit Stay * Stand Stay * Drop Stay * Come * Return to Heel

Equipment Required

* 6 Business branded XL Training Mats
* Supply of Halters of assorted sizes
* Vet wrap or Dog Boots
* Training Lead
* Water Dispenser
* Access cards to access the training videos
* Appy Information sheet
* Safety Pack (Spray and Cattle Prod) in side pack
 

Prior to Start of Class Week 1 only

* Send a text to all class clients ensuring they know the start time and location – what they need to bring including their dog and that you look forward to meeting them.  This is to ensure there is no misinterpretation of the automated message/email that goes out to clients when they book.
* There is information collected at the time of booking about each dog – preview prior to the start of class.
* Once the first class has finished if you are a company trainer you will need to enter the dollar amount into our financial system Xero and for any other purchases they make during the course.
* If you are a franchisee ensure all payments have gone through the booking system Vcita so that the client gets a receipt – admin will do the rest.
 
 
 

Class Starts – Week 1

* Do a site check to ensure a safe environment – complete site check form and submit to the office for filing.
* Set up class site ready for clients.
* Greet clients as they arrive and fit dogs as required with Halters – We do not allow any other halters than the ones we use due to safety concerns and damage to neck muscles.
* Once all clients have arrived start class.
* Each command will need to be demonstrated by using your own dog or a clients dog.
 

In depth Description of Week 1 Commands.

 

Mat Training

  1. It’s the most passive way to flip the balance of control back into the owners favor. Essentially, the way dogs end up controlling us is passively, so we are going to do it back to them, in a effective, passive way that they understand.
  2. It allows your dog to self soothe and relax, by themselves, in their own time. They need to learn how to get themselves into a calm, regulated state in order to be able to cope with and release any stress or anxiety. It very useful for over excited dogs who struggle with self-control. We cannot force a dog to relax – so when they are on the mat we won’t tell them to sit, drop or stay. When they are ready, they will do it on their own.
  3. It will teach your dog to become desensitized to whatever it is that triggers them off…whether it be other dogs, cars, people, bikes. Your dog will learn to relax in any environment, under any circumstances.

It will also build the trust your dog has in you and allow your bond to grow.

The 3 most important things when training your dog…You must be:

CALM – never lose your cool or allow your dog to frustrate you.

ASSERTIVE – always back up what you say and be firm with your commands. Never say a command more than once.

CONSISTENT – once you create rules, structure and boundaries, stick with them!

If any of these things wane, your dog will see it as a weakness in your leadership and they will start to test you. A dog will never fully trust a leader who isn’t these 3 things!

If your dog trusts you it will make recall training a lot easier!

You must always use the collar and lead when you do mat training. The lead represents control. Part of what we are trying to achieve.

You will point to the mat and once only you will say – “on the mat”.

Gently lead your dog to the mat, so all 4 paws are on the mat. (When laying down they can have up to the elbows off the mat, head can be off but the body must be on)

Ensure you do this in a calm manner as the mat should always be a positive space.

As you start to layer on some control, your dog may test you and push the boundaries. This can come in many forms. Anything from an increase in an unwanted behavior (jumping, barking whining, destructive behaviors etc. ) to an additional new unwanted behavior – such as urinating in the house. Please remember this does not mean the training isn’t working. It means your dog senses change and is testing your leadership.

If your dog bites the lead, either use a chain lead or spray your lead with some Bitterant.

Remain strong throughout this period. It will end if you remain consistent and keep up the training!

 

Your dog will also test you whilst you are doing the mat training. They may step one paw off, they may pretend to be itchy and roll off the mat, they may sit right at the edge of the mat. Regardless of what your dog does, they must remain on the mat. If they step off, gently pull them back on – DO NOT say anything when you do this. Each time they step off, remain silent and gently pull them back on.

Remember – you have asked them once already to go to the mat. Never repeat a command.

DO NOT say “uh uh” or anything similar when your dog steps off the mat. This is very hard for the human, as we are so verbal. Dogs are nonverbal and they don’t understand English (they can however, learn up to 160 words – by association) so every time you talk to your dog you are giving them praise. We DO NOT want to give them praise when they step off the mat, so silence is golden when taking them back to the mat!

If your dog jumps up on others and you have the lead on, a gentle correction on the collar, enough to pull her down, is all that is required. No verbal, from you or the people she has jumped on. This is very important. If the behavior is persistent, take your dog to the mat, where she will calm down and relax, then she can be freed from the mat.

Remember you can use your mat as a backup for any unwanted behaviour. As long as you are calm when you take your dog to the mat they will only ever see it as a positive place where they relax. As humans we may see it as a naughty corner.

In order for the mat training to be effective, you must increase the time your dog is on the mat from the laying down, relaxed position (hips flipped to the side). It may only be a minute at first, but increase it as you go, walk around the mat, until you can drop the lead and take a few steps away. (In the safety of your home only) .This takes time and patience.

Eventually you will be able to walk away from the mat, increasing the time on the mat and the distance from the mat. At this stage you will be leaving the room for short periods, returning and praising if your dog has stayed on the mat.If they didn’t, take them calmly back to the mat, no verbal and then try the exercise again.

Your dog will eventually be so relaxed on the mat they will fall asleep. If it is a deep sleep, when they wake up, let them walk off as they please as they won’t remember you have put them on there.

When releasing your dog from the mat:

Pick up the lead and say “free” and gently coax your dog off with a pull of the lead. Give them lots of praise. They will soon learn what “free” means.

The biggest mistakes people make when doing mat training:

  1. Not using the lead. You will need this for some time yet. It takes 21 days to create a consistent behavior in a mammal.
  2. Only keeping the dog on the mat for a minute or 3. This is not long enough for the relaxation process to happen.
  3. Only having the mat in one area. Move it around the house, inside, outside, to the park, cafe, outside and at a distance from a dog park…everywhere!
  4. Allowing the dog to creep off the mat. You have to have some rules otherwise it’s a pointless exercise.
  5. Using high pitched voices and getting over excited when praising or freeing your dog from the mat….an over excited human will create an over excited dog!

The more mat training you do and the more consistent you are, the quicker you will see positive change in your dog’s behaviors.

 

Any time is a good time for mat training – watching tv, at a cafe, making dinner, having a coffee, swimming in the pool, gardening etc.

You cannot overdo mat training. Remember if you remain calm when you are taking your dog to the mat, they will only ever see it as a place they go to, to relax.

Lounges and beds

It’s OK to have your dog on the bed but it must be by invitation only. If they are jumping on the lounge or the bed, they are in control, you need to set boundaries. If they jump on the lounge gently push them off without saying anything, if you talk to them you are rewarding them for the behavior, and that’s a behavior we don’t want. If they are really persistent and are testing you, put the lead on and gently lead them to the mat.  Remember if you tell them to get down you are adding a command like sit – you are not actually stopping the behavior.

Every time you are telling your dog to do something, be prepared to back it up.

 

Heel Position

NB: please note that at least 3 mtrs are required between each dog at all times for safety reasons.

  1. You need to be the leader and in control of the Walk not your dog so your dog needs to be at your side not out in front.
  2. Dogs are usually on the left of us – this is an old military tradition – it doesn’t matter as long as you are consistent with your choice. The lead should have your knuckles facing outward so you have more control and your other hand holding the excess lead
  3. Your lead should be loose with no pulling from the dog; if they do, you need to correct this behavior with a flick of the wrist on the lead and return them to heel.
  4. Key command used in class “loose lead left foot forward with the command heel”.
  5. Show the client the lead across your thigh – as you step off and say the word heel this will pull the dog forward and the association between the dog, your leg moving and the word will be made.
  6. Always take off with your left foot as this means motion, the right means stationary.
  7. If you prefer to have your dog on the right side the commands remain the same – left foot means motion, the right means stationary.
  8. Your dog will try to gain back control and throw tests at you, it may be that you dog in putting their paw on your foot and your thinking “aww” he loves me, what they are really doing is testing you to see how much they can push.  This is your personal space remember that. If this happens gently push the dogs foot off yours. If they lean against you that’s also another sign so again gently push them off. If you don’t correct these behaviors, to your dog you failed the test

Sit

  1. Key Command used in class “Lifting the lead up with the right hand pushing down with the left, with command SIT”.
  2. Your dog should be in a sitting position neatly with their shoulder in line with your leg. If your dog gets up gently push their bum down again with no words. Do not repeat the command.  If this is a bit sloppy at first we can tidy it up as we go along. If your dog sits, but is facing another direction they are basically giving you the finger and telling you, “I’ll sit but it’s on my terms”, gently move their bum so it’s in line with you, and repeat if they stand up. This may take a number of times to master but persevere, if you give up your dog wins.
  3. If you tell your dog to sit and they don’t, and you say it again they still don’t do it so you say it again, you have now said it 3 times, after doing this repeatedly your dog will associate the sit command with you saying it sit 3 times. Don’t say it over and over; Say it once and once only. If they don’t comply, push there bum down.
  4. Say sit and give them 1 second to comply, if they don’t you need to gently push their bum down.
  5. 1/2 hr training is equivalent to 1hr walking.  You need to not only wear your dog out physically but mentally as well and incorporating commands during a walk will do this. Dogs like boundaries and the more you train and have your dog under control the happier you and your dog will be.

Give the dog plenty of praise when they have done what has been asked of them.

 

Sit and Stay

Key command in class used for Sit Stay “Firm hand signal in front of the face with the command STAY. Stepping off with the right foot stand (location and distance required)”

* Now you have learnt the sit command you can teach them to stay, and this is done with placing your dog in the sit position and putting a firm hand in front of the dogs face with the command “Stay”. You will then be asked to step to the side of your dog and return, if your dog moves out of position return to the dog and gently push on your dog’s bum to sit and repeat exercise. Do not repeat any of the commands if your dog has not done what you asked them to do. Repeat until your dog has done what you ask, return to their side and give them plenty of praise.

Mix the stay’s gradually with standing behind the dog, in front of the dog – all directions around the dog including circling around your dog.

Remembering that:

  • Left foot is motion

  • Right foot is stationary

Give the dog plenty of praise when they have done what has been asked of them.

 

Below is the associated content from the run sheet for Week 1

Key Phrases – Week 1

❑ Mat Training “Using a hand indication pointing to the mat with the command ON THE MAT”

❑ Heel “Loose Lead left foot forward with the command HEEL”

❑ Sit “Lifting the lead up with the right pushing down with the left with the command SIT”

❑ Stay “Firm hand signal in front of the face with the command STAY. Stepping off with the right foot stand (location and distance required)”

Week 1 – Commands

❑ Mat Training – Demonstrate with a clients or your own dog how to do Mat training – say command once – Keep all 4 paws on mat unless lying down – beware of square dancing by dog and toes off – if dog steps off do not say anything just take back to Mat.

❑ Heel – Movement in obedience is indicated by the left foot – right means stay still. Have the dog next to you – have the lead draped loosely across your thigh – as you step forward you thigh will catch the lead and move the dog forward at the same time say the word heel.

❑ Sit – Lift the lead up with the right lead and tuck the bum under with the left. If the dog stands back up don’t say anything just resit, if the dog lies down lift back into sit.

❑ Stay – Movement in obedience is indicated by the left foot – right means stay still. Start with directly in front, watch for them moving the left foot causing the dog to break. Start with small distance and time and grow over the course. You want to do it in all directions eventually by the end of class circling the dog. If dog breaks DON’T SAY ANYTHING – place back in position and step back out. When stable return and praise.

Week 1 – Class Run

❑ 5 Mins – Introduction to course and training – information about yourself

❑ 5 Mins – Mat Training

❑ 10 Mins – Practice Mat Training

❑ 5 Mins – Heel Command

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Heel Command

❑ 5 Mins – Break for Dogs

❑ 5 Mins – Sit Command

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Sit command

❑ 5 Mins – Sit Stay Command

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Sit Stay Command

❑ 5 Mins – Close down – Final points – Let them know next weeks Commands

 

Class Starts – Week 2

* Do a site check to ensure a safe environment – complete site check form and submit to the office for filing.
* Set up class site ready for clients.
* Greet clients as they arrive and check fit of halters on dogs.
* Once all clients have arrived start class.
* Each command will need to be demonstrated by using your own dog or a clients dog.
 

In depth Description of Week 2 Commands.

 

Stand

Key command used in class

* Shortening the lead in the right hand parallel to the ground, firm hand across the face with the command “STAND”.

  • First key instruction is to ensure clients understand what parallel is.  Actually show them with a lead so that there is a visual indicator.
  • Next show them what a pistol grip is – this is crucial to being able to control the head in the correct position to limit movement during the command.
  • Next demonstrate the hand signal with the command stand and lead position next to the head using the pistol grip from the sitting position.  This is to ensure the correct movement – do this several times.
  • The final step is putting it together from heel.
  • Watch outs – if the dog is an auto sitter – The owner will need to quickly slide the hand down to the join between the hind leg and body to prevent the dog from sitting.
  • If the dog achieves the command but after a few seconds or when the owner stands then goes to sit then heel off quickly.
  • Repetition is the key to success.  For ultra stubborn dogs you can use a two lead method with a lead under the belly.
  • Watch out for the owner lifting the lead up this will cause the dog to sit.

Give the dog plenty of praise when they have done what has been asked of them.

 

Drop

Key command used in class

“Lead in left hand – with a quick coercion to the ground give the command DROP”

  • This is the most submissive position for a dog to be in to a human, hence why we do it in week 2. At this stage you would/should have gained control of your dog, and by now you have gained some trust with them.

There are 3 key ways that we show the class how to do this.  There are more but these are the quickest.  Pick your demo dog wisely to avoid a bite.

  1. By holding onto the side of the dog’s collar with 2-3 fingers, using your hand that is closest to the dog and saying “drop” and gently pulling them down to the ground.  Ensure firm pressure and do not stop unless there is the serious prospect of a bite and change to a sweep.  This allows the dog to make a conscious decision to drop. Never use the right hand and be on the right side you will be too close to the head – the left hand represents a safety barrier and distance.
  2. This is “the sweep”. By holding onto the top of the dog’s collar with 2-3 fingers (palm down), using your hand that is closest to the dog and placing your arm across their back applying gentle pressure if any, on their bum.  This supports the back and gives you more control.  Gently and quickly sweeping the dogs legs forward using your other hand so they go to the ground saying the word “drop”.
  3. By holding onto the side of the dog’s collar with 2-3 fingers, using your hand that is closest to the dog and saying “drop” and gently pulling them down to the ground. At the same time using the other hand rub your hand back and forth from the bridge to the snout quickly and continuously.  The dog will want to look under your hand and cannot do two things at once.  Ensure firm pressure and do not stop unless there is the serious prospect of a bite and change to a sweep.  This allows the dog to make a conscious decision to drop. Never use the right hand and be on the right side you will be too close to the head – the left hand represents a safety barrier and distance.

Give the dog plenty of praise when they have done what has been asked of them.  Don’t do the drop more than a few times.  If the dog is really stubborn then find something the dog really enjoys and it must drop before that every time to embed the behavior.

 

Come

Key command used in class

“Go to the length of lead in front of the dog and call COME.

  • Place your dog in a sit and stay position; walk out to the length of the lead, leading with your right foot, stay there and call “come” and gently pull the lead towards you, When your dog is in front of you place them in a “sit” position.
  • Practice from all different positions.

NB: You place them in a sit position because if you are calling your dog from a distance you don’t want them to run into you, this could cause some serious damage to you!

  • Watch outs with Come – never use an angry or frustrated voice – the dog will sense the change and you will break that trust or confuse him with a different sounding come.
  • Never ever call your dog then discipline them.  That will completely destroy your recall.  The dog has come to you in good faith and you have broken that trust – whatever the dog did it is in the past – all your dog cares about at that point in time is being in front of you – its leader.

 

Below is the associated content from the run sheet for Week 2

 

Key Phrases – Week 2

❑ Stand “Shortening the lead up in the right hand, parallel to the ground, quick hand signal in front of the face with the command STAND”

❑ Drop “Lead in left hand – with a quick coercion to the ground give the command DROP”

❑ Come “Go to the length of lead in front of the dog and call COME.

 

Week 2 – Commands

❑ Stand – Demonstrate with a clients or your own dog how to do Stand– say command once. Technique is everything in this exercise. If they have been previously getting dog to sit automatically when stopped they will get issues. Touching the flank to get them to stand may be required. WATCH for parallel lead!

❑ Drop – In Level 1, Drop is from the Sit position. Safety is everything always use the left hand. Whichever method you use once you begin the drop you must not stop or the dog will learn to protest. If dog breaks DON’T SAY ANYTHING – place back in position. Select which drop would be best for the client based on dog temperament.

❑ Come – Explain why a dog may not come and how to overcome it. Never use angry or frustrated voices.

 

Week 2 – Class Run

❑ 10 Mins – Revision from week before – any issues?

❑ 5 Mins – Stand

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Stand

❑ 5 Mins – Drop

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Drop

❑ 5 Mins – Break for Dogs

❑ 5 Mins – Come

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Come

❑ 10 Mins – Do a walk incorporating all commands

❑ 5 Mins – Close down – Final points – Let them know next weeks Commands

 

Class Starts – Week 3

* Do a site check to ensure a safe environment – complete site check form and submit to the office for filing.
* Set up class site ready for clients.
* Greet clients as they arrive and check fit of halters on dogs.
* Once all clients have arrived start class.
* Each command will need to be demonstrated by using your own dog or a clients dog.
 

In depth Description of Week 3 Commands.

 

Stand Stay

Key command used in class

Stand Stay “Shortening the lead up in the right hand, parallel to the ground, quick hand signal in front of the face with the command STAND” ”Firm hand signal in front of the face with the command STAY. Stepping off with the right foot stand (location and distance required)”

  • This is the same concept as sit and stay. Place your dog in a stand position and place your hand in front of the dog with the command “stand”.
  • Command the dog to stay with a firm hand in front of the face and say “STAY”
  • Repeat the same exercises as sit and stay, moving around your dog/in front/to the side and behind, gradually going out to the length of the lead.

 

Drop Stay

Key command used in class

Drop Stay “Lead in left hand – with a quick coercion to the ground give the command DROP” Firm hand signal in front of the face with the command STAY. Stepping off with the right foot stand (location and distance required)”

  • Command your dogs to “drop” place your hand in front of the dog and say “stay” moving around your dog/in front/to the side and behind, gradually going out to the length of the lead. Maybe staying there for a few seconds.

If they get up return them to the position and keep doing it until they have done what has been asked.  Give the dog plenty of praise when they have done what has been asked of them.

 

Return to Heel

Key command used in class

Return to Heel “Step back with the right foot with the command HEEL. Pass the lead behind your back with the dog and step off with the left foot and continue heeling.”

  • When you are walking your dog you can give them the “free” command, this is when your dog is free to sniff his surroundings a tree maybe.  You as the leader should stay where you have freed them.  No walking forward further.
  • When you are ready to command your dog to heel and return them to your side then –
  • If they are on the left you just need to return your dog to your side and continue walking with the command Heel.
  • If they are on the right you need to get them to the heel position, you don’t want your dog crossing your pathway and tripping you, so in order to get them to your left side, Command Heel – step back on your right foot pull the dog behind you.  Your other foot steps back so you are standing upright.  Continue to guide your dog around the back of you.  Step off as if heeling and your dog will naturally fall into the position required.

Give the dog plenty of praise when they have done what has been asked of them.

 

Graduation

  • Photo time with dogs and owners.
  • Ask permission for photos to be taken and uploaded particularly when children are in photos.
  • Caps, Certificates and Magnets
  • Clients often ask if their dog is ready for level 2; the only criteria is the dog must be able to drop using 1 hand only. Hand signals are incorporated in level 2 so 1 hand needs to be free to give the command.

 

Below is the associated content from the run sheet for Week 3

Key Phrases – Week 3

❑ Stand Stay “Shortening the lead up in the right hand, parallel to the ground, quick hand signal in front of the face with the command STAND” ”Firm hand signal in front of the face with the command STAY. Stepping off with the right foot stand (location and distance required)”

❑ Drop Stay “Lead in left hand – with a quick coercion to the ground give the command DROP” Firm hand signal in front of the face with the command STAY. Stepping off with the right foot stand (location and distance required)”

❑ Return to Heel “Step back with the right foot with the command HEEL. Pass the lead behind your back with the dog and step off with the left foot and continue heeling.”

 

Week 3 – Commands

❑ Stand Stay – Demonstrate with a clients or your own dog how to do Stand Stay – say command once. Technique is everything in this exercise. If they have been previously getting dog to sit automatically when stopped they will get issues. Touching the flank to get them to stand may be required. WATCH for parallel lead!


❑ Drop Stay – Demonstrate with a clients or your own dog how to do Drop Stay– say command once.


❑ Return to Heel – Explain how the dog will learn to automatically go to that position and why it should not cross in front of you so you don’t trip.

 

Week 3 – Class Run


❑ 10 Mins – Revision from week before – any issues?

❑ 5 Mins – Stand Stay

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Stand Stay

❑ 5 Mins – Drop Stay

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Drop Stay

❑ 5 Mins – Break for Dogs

❑ 5 Mins – Return to Heel

❑ 5 Mins – Practice Return to Heel

❑ 5 Mins – Practice all Commands

❑ 10 Mins – Graduation

 

After Course

  • Once class has finished if you are a company trainer then
    • Photos are to be Uploaded to dogtraining101 Facebook page.
    • Names of dogs and location in 1 must be with the photos on the post
    • All stock must be paid for on the 1st week of training.
    • Remember to ask all clients for a review.
  • If you are a Franchise Owner then email the above details to admin and they will upload them Monday morning and ask clients if they would like a copy sooner which you can text to them.
  • Ask for a review also on the dogtraining101 page or on google.